Monte Rosa Classic

Along the crest of the Valais Alps, 9 Four-Thousanders and Pasta for lunch

Region: Wallis, Switzerland
Fitness Kondition
Technic Technik
maximum participants: 3
Prices: 3 persons Euro 990.-, 2 persons Euro 1390.-, 1 person Euro 2490.-
Included: 5 days guiding, expenses of the guide

Tour Character

High alpine crossing of one of the highest western alpine massifs. The daily stages increase continuously until the 4th day. Intensive altitude exposure from at least 34oo to a maximum of 4500 m.

Required Skill and Fitness Level

Skill: You should be safe and comfortable on crampons. A few short sections will be as steep as 40 degrees.

Fitness: Up to 4-8 hour climbs per day (see tour itinerary).

Meeting point: Bahnhofpl. 5, 3920 Zermatt, Schweiz

Tour Description

Experience the Italian flair and the French charm of the Monte Rosa region. Your mountain guide leads you through a fantastic glacier world and offers you the opportunity to climb some of the highest peaks in the Alps – in good conditions up to 9.Enjoy, far from everyday life, the view from the Bernina over the Apennines to Mont Blanc …


Day 1
Meet at 7.00 a.m. at the railway station in Zermatt in front of the tourist office. After discussing the tour programme and checking our equipment, we take the cable car up to the Klein Matterhorn, 3883m. From there, we will summit the Breithorn, 4164m, in approximately 2 hours. The descent to the Rifugio Guide della Val d’Ayas, 3394m, requires about 2-3 hours.

Day 2
We traverse Castor across its west flank and marvellous firn ridge and reach its summit, 4228m, in 3-4 hours. The descent to the Quintino Sella hut, 3585m, takes us about 2 hours.

Day 3
Today our trip takes us across the snowfield of the shoulder of Passo del Naso, 4100m. The easy climb of Punta del Naso, about 4200m, offers us an obvious summit option, which unveils the impressive vista of the majestic Lyskamm ridge. The descent brings us to the eastern lobe of the Lysgletscher from where we can, depending on our motivation, take in one or the other of the 4000ers along the way. Alternatives are the Balmhorn, 4215m, or the Vincent Pyramid, 4215m. The climb will take us 5-6 hours. The descent to the Mantova-, 3440m or Gnifetti hut, 3611m requires another 1-2 hours.

Day 4
This day represents the royal stage of our tour: Our first summit is the distinctive black rock peak of Corno Nero, 4321m. Generally we content ourselves with its easy snow-capped summit. But those who have a good head for heights can dare the short but exposed climb to the Madonnengipfel, escorted securely by the mountain guide. Subsequently we cross the easy Ludwigshöhe, 4341m, und traverse the impressive “roof ridge” of the Parrotspitze, 4432m. If we have enough fitness and motivation after a rest above the Seser Joch with its terrific view towards Lake Maggiore we attempt the highest summit, the Zumsteinspitze, 4565m. An alternative would be the ascent on the following day. We tackle our last ascent, the Signalkuppe (Punta Gnifetti), 4554m, after a break at Colle Gnifetti. On this tour we can take it easy because there is no descent ahead of us. We plan 6-7 hours altogether to reach our goal, the Margherita hut that lies right on the summit of the mountain. That’s where we will spend the night.

Day 5
The last day of our tour will bring us back to Zermatt. With a bit of luck, we may experience a magnificent sunrise as we leave the Margherita hut. The subsequent descent brings us in 3-4 hours via the mighty Grenzgletscher to the Monte Rosa hut SAC, 2798m. Here a farewell snack makes for a successful conclusion (… or the beginning of the Dufourspitze). Officially, our tour ends here. But, of course, your mountain guide accompanies you on the further descent to Rotenboden, 2815m (glacier and marked route, approx. 3 hours). From there we get to Zermatt by train on the Gonergratbahn.

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