King Ortles – cornerstone of the “Engadine Dolomites”

The highest “Spiz” in Tyrol

Region: Ortles Alps
Fitness Kondition
Technic Technik
maximum participants: 3
Prices: 1 person Euro 650.-, 2 persons Euro 395.-, 3 persons Euro 330.-

Tour Character

Classic, medium difficult high tour. Most moderately difficult rocky terrain in UIAA grade II-III; medium steep in ice and snow.

Required Skill and Fitness Level

Skill: Safe walking or climbing with crampons. Short passages (up to 100 m) can be up to 35 degrees steep (depending on the ratio). Fast climbing in the rock area up to the level of difficulty UIAA II + / III- in the ascent and descent.

Fitness: Daily stages up to 8 hours (see tour itinerary).

Tour Description

On the way to Sulden you can already see this mountain at Reschensee: a real giant, an incredible mass of gray dolomite rock, snow and ice. The eye of the beholder wanders for some time on his couloirs interspersed, serac-studded and pillar-reinforced flanks, until it has spotted its highest point. One thinks, which way one will probably take to the summit of this, its surrounding satellites by some towering, almost insurmountable giant. The answer is to just try it …


  • Number of participants: 1 to max. 3 persons per guide.
  • Services included: tour organization, reservations, guiding by a state approved mountain and Ski guide.
  • Services excluded: Overnight and half board at the Payer Hut (for actual prices click here).
  • Accommodation: Payer hut.
  • Misc: Insurances (accident, travel cancellation) at customer’s responsibility. Please refer to general terms and conditions.

1. Tag
Meeting point at about 12 o'clock at the parking lot of the Langenstein lift in Sulden. Joint ascent to the Payerhütte (3029 m), tour briefing, dinner together, overnight stay. Ascent 1100 m, 3.5 hours or 800 m, 2.5 hours (when using the Langenstein lift).

1100 m or 800 m (when using the Langenstein Lift)

3,5 hours or 2,5 hours (when using the Langenstein Lift)

2. Tag
Ascent to the Ortler on the normal ascent: our way leads us first from the hut over a gap to the north ridge. Over this we get, again and again short, easy climbing sections max. UIAA II + overcoming in another pass. From the latter we climb over a steep section (chains) to a flat ridge shoulder, which we follow to the end. The subsequent ridge section (plate and short "Überhangl", III-) takes us to easier terrain. The next crossing leads to the glacier, which we climb over several steep ascents (possibly an interuption through a ledge, depending on the snow situation). At the end very flat (the "Ortlerplatt") we reach the summit of the 3902 m high Ortles. Difference in altitude 1000 m, total time 3 to 4 hours. On the same way we return to the hut and, after a short break, continue to Solda.

1000 m

2000 m

9 hours

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