Guided mountaineering tour to Dent Blanche (4,357 m) – The Rock Peak of Valais

A prominent 4,000-meter peak in central Valais


Region: Valais, Switzerland (Starting point: Ferpècle / Val d’Hérens)
Fitness Kondition

Du bist ein Genießer, du liebst es gemütlich. 2 bis 3 Stunden Gesamtzeit sind kein Problem für dich.

Du magst gemütliche Touren, kannst auch etwas drüber hinausgehen. Bis zu 5 Stunden Gesamtzeit schaffst du gut.

Du bist schon etwas ambitionierter und es macht dir nichts aus, dich 6 bis 7 Stunden auf Tour zu bewegen.

Deine Ausdauer ist sehr gut, du bist nach einer 8- bis 9-stündigen Tour noch nicht „ausgepowert“.

Deine Kondition ist überdurchschnittlich gut und du kannst nach 9 bis 10 Stunden auf Tour immer noch entspannt dein Bier genießen.

Beachte bitte auch, dass für diese konditionelle Bewertung eine Leistung von mindestens 300 (bei Touren ab Schwierigkeitsbewertung  mindestens 400, ab  mindestens 500) Höhenmetern in der Stunde (im Aufstieg am Wanderweg ohne schweres Gepäck) Voraussetzung ist.

You enjoy walks, you like it unhurried. 2 to 3 hours of walking time are no issue for you.

You like unhurried walks but do appreciate something more challenging. 5 hours walking time are finde with you.

You are already a bit ambitious and you don’t mind 6 to 7 hours walking time.

You are in great shape, 8 to 9 hours of walking / climbing are not your limit.

You are physical fitness is way beyond average, even after 9 to 10 hours of walking / climbing you will enjoy your beer with a smile.

Please consider the minimum climbing rate based on these degrees of fitness 300 m or 1000 ft vertical per hour. From level  and higher it is 500 m or 1500 ft vertical per hour, both with light backpacks.
Technic Technik

In der untersten Schwierigkeitsstufe bewegst du dich an der Grenze zwischen Piste und freiem Skiraum. Du kannst mit diesem Eigenkönnen schon an meinen „Geführten Skitouren für Anfänger“ teilnehmen. Wenn du dich steigern möchtest, empfehle ich dir den Kurs „Schnupperskitouren – von der Piste ins Gelände“.

Du beherrschst den sicheren Stemmschwung in jeder Schneeart in sanftem, maximal wenig mehr als 30° geneigtem Gelände. Im Aufstieg kommen keine oder nur vereinzelte Spitzkehren vor.

In gelegentlichen Steilstücken von 30 bis 35° bereitet dir der sichere Stemmschwung keine Probleme. Für den Aufstieg benötigst du Spitzkehrentechnik.

In mäßig geneigtem Gelände schwingst du parallel, häufige Steilpassagen um 35°, gelegentlich auch mehr, schaffst du mit sicherem Stemmschwung. Im Aufstieg ist auf deine Spitzkehren Verlass. Vereinzelte Tragepassagen bis zu 40° meisterst du mit Steigeisen. Leichte Kletterstellen* (max. UIAA I–II) sind für dich gut machbar.

Du bist ein sehr guter Skifahrer und beherrschst den Stemm- oder Parallelschwung in jeder Schneeart auf einer durchschnittlichen Hangneigung von 35 bis 40°. Du bist in punkto Spitzkehrentechnik auch im exponierten Gelände sattelfest. Häufige Tragepassagen um die 40° mit Steigeisen wie auch gelegentliche Kletterstellen* (max. UIAA II) nehmen dir nicht den Mut.

*I. a. nicht obligatorisch.

In the lowest difficulty level, you move on the border between ski run and off-piste area. You can already participate in my “guided ski tours for beginners” with this own skills. If you want to improve, I recommend you the course “Skitours for Beginners – from Piste to Off-Piste”.

You mastered the safe stem turn in each type of snow in gentle, max. little more than 30 ° inclined terrain. In ascent, there are no or only occasional switchbacks.

In occasional steep sections of 30 to 35 °, the safe stem turn does not cause you any problems. For the ascent you need switchback technique.

In moderately sloping terrain you ski in parallel, frequent steep passages around 35 °, occasionally more, you can do with a safe stem turn. On the ascent your switchbacks are reliable. Occasional carrying passages up to 40 ° you overcome with crampons. Lightweight climbing sections * (max UIAA I-II) are possible for you.

You are a very good skier and master the stem or parallel turn in any type of snow on an average slope of 35 to 40 °. You are also saddle-fast in the exposed area when it comes to switchback technique. Frequent carrying passages around 40 ° with crampons as well as occasional climbing sections * (max. UIAA II) do not take the courage.

*In general not obligatory.

Es sind keine speziellen Techniken notwendig. Etwas Trittsicherheit bringst du mit.

Du beherrscht das Gehen mit Steigeisen in gelegentlichen Gletscherpassagen mit 30 bis 35° Neigung.

Auch wenn sich steile Gletscher- oder Firnpassagen von 30 bis 35° häufen, bewegst du dich sicher. Dein Technikrepertoire schließt (ab dieser Schwierigkeitsstufe) das Steigen mit Frontalzacken ein. Vereinzelte leichte Kletterstellen (max. UIAA I bis II) überwindest du zügig.

Obwohl der Großteil der Tour in steilem Gletscher- oder Firngelände von durchschnittlich 35°, manchmal auch 40° verläuft, fühlst du dich noch wohl. Mittelschwere Kletterstellen (UIAA II bis III) meisterst du ohne lange zu überlegen.

In der höchsten Schwierigkeitsstufe ist eine absolut sichere Frontalzackentechnik obligatorisch. Du musst Gletscher- oder Firnpassagen bis zu 45°, vereinzelt bis zu 50° überwinden. Du bist ein guter Felskletterer, der sich vor schwierigen Schlüsselstellen (max. UIAA III bis IV) nicht scheut.

No specific skills necessary, just the usual sure-footedness.

You are able to climb and descend with crampons on occasional glaciers of up to 30 to 35 degrees slopes.

Even in frequent 35 degrees glacier slopes you feel confident. From this degree of difficulty on you can reliably use your front points. You manage occasional easy climbing difficulties (UIAA I – II) without hesitation.

Even though most of the tour you will be exposed to steep glacier and snow slopes of 35 up to 40 degrees you are comfortable with that. You routinely manage medium climbing difficulties (UIAA II – III).

The highest level of difficulty requires superior front point technique. You will have to deal with glacier and snow slopes beyond 45 and up to 50 degrees. You are a good rock climber not hesitating to deal with difficulties of (UIAA III – IV).


maximum participants: 1
Prices: €1,595
Included: Organization, reservations, and guided tours led by state-certified mountain and ski guides

Tour Description

Do you dream of climbing one of the most challenging and beautiful four-thousand-meter peaks in the Valais Alps? A guided high-altitude tour to the Dent Blanche (4,357 m) is one of the absolute highlights in the life of a mountaineer. Far from the overcrowded trendy peaks, this mighty rock horn in Valais offers pure alpinism and spectacular ridge climbing. Join your state-certified mountain guide on the legendary South Ridge (Wandflue Ridge) and conquer the Dent Blanche with exclusive 1-on-1 guiding for maximum safety and the best chance of success.

FAQ – Frequently Asked Questions About the Dent Blanche High-Altitude Tour

  • How difficult is the mountaineering route up Dent Blanche? The ascent of the Dent Blanche via the south ridge (Wandflue Ridge) is considered a difficult, mixed alpine tour (difficulty: ZS / fairly difficult). It requires solid rock climbing skills (UIAA grade III to III+, with key sections up to IV-) as well as absolute confidence in walking with crampons on firn slopes with a gradient of up to 40 degrees.

  • What’s the best way to acclimatize for the Dent Blanche? Due to the considerable summit elevation of 4,357 meters, prior acclimatization is absolutely essential. Ideal preparatory hikes in the region include, for example, the Aiguilles Rouges traverse in Arolla or other four-thousand-meter peaks in the Valais.

  • Why is the guide-to-client ratio on the Dent Blanche 1:1? The Dent Blanche is a long, challenging, and consistently exposed route in the Western Alps. To ensure maximum safety, efficient progress through the crux sections of the Grand Gendarme, and flexible rope team tactics, a Firngrat mountain guide leads only a single client on this tour.

  • How long is the approach to the Cabane de la Dent Blanche? The hike from Ferpècle in the Val d’Hérens up to the Cabane de la Dent Blanche at 3,507 meters takes about 4 to 5 hours and involves a climb of approximately 1,700 meters. A high level of physical fitness is therefore essential.


Meeting point: Sion, Bahnhof

Tour Character

-A challenging, mixed high-altitude tour
-Rock terrain (mostly UIAA II, with key sections up to III+/IV-), alternating with snow and ice sections.
-Summit elevation of 4,357 m.
-Acclimatization or training tour recommended

Required Skill and Fitness Level

Skill: Complete confidence when walking with crampons (even on exposed snow slopes up to 40°) as well as fast, confident rock climbing (UIAA III to III+).

Fitness: Excellent – Daily stages of up to 9 hours and a long descent require excellent stamina.

Details

  • Number of participants: 1 person per mountain guide.
  • Services included: Organization, reservation, guided tour by a state-certified mountain guide.
  • Exclusive services: Overnight stay and half-board at the lodge for the guest and the mountain guide.
  • Accommodation: Cabane de la Dent Blanche.
  • Other: Insurance (accident, trip cancellation) is the responsibility of the participants. Please read the General Terms and Conditions.

Program schedule/tour itinerary

Day 1: Hike to the mountain hut in the wild Val d’Hérens
After meeting at the Sion train station, we’ll travel together to Ferpècle. From there, we’ll begin the long but scenically stunning ascent to the spectacularly situated Cabane de la Dent Blanche (3,507 m). The approximately 5-hour approach (1,700 m elevation gain) requires good stamina, but rewards us with the perfect starting point for the summit day.

1,700 m

0 m

4 to 5 hours
Day 2: Ascent via the Wandflue and South Ridges
The ascent: We set off about an hour before dawn right from the SAC hut. By the light of our headlamps, we climb up a steep rocky ridge (UIAA I-II) to the Wandfluelücke (glacier saddle). We continue over an easy boulder ridge, firn, and easy rock to the base of the striking Grand Gendarme (4,057 m). The crux: Depending on conditions, we bypass the slabs of the Grand Gendarme on the west side (often covered in snow or ice) to rejoin the ridge on the other side. In challenging, exposed climbing (key sections up to UIAA III+), we conquer several towers on the south ridge and reach the summit of Dent Blanche (4,357 m) after a total of 3–4 hours (900 m elevation gain). The descent: The return trip requires our full concentration once again. We climb and rappel down the ascent route back to the hut. After a short rest, the long, strenuous descent back down to the valley to Ferpècle begins (total time for Day 2: 8–9 hours; 2,600 meters of descent).

900 m

2,600 m

8 to 9 hours

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