Biancograt, August 26
Biancograt Ascent: A Dream Climb to Piz Bernina (4,049 m)
The classic mountain hike over the Biancograt begins in the tranquil village of Pontresina in the Upper Engadine. We start our hike to the Tschierva Hut (2,583 m) from the train station—our base for this alpine adventure. The trail into the beautiful Roseg Valley is long and flat at the start. We decide to take it easy on this section and ride in a horse-drawn carriage—after all, we’ll have plenty of hard work ahead of us the next day.
We arrive at the hut shortly before 6 p.m. After dinner, we go straight to bed to get enough sleep for the grueling day of climbing to the summit.
A nighttime departure for Fuorcla Prievlusa
The next day, we’re up at 3:00 a.m. Right on time at 3:30 a.m., my guest and I leave the hut. It’s unusually warm: wearing only T-shirts, we reach the glacier below Fuorcla Prievlusa while still under cover of darkness. When we arrive at the top of the saddle, daybreak is finally upon us. We climb over the last rocky outcrops, conquer the striking “shark fin,” and finally stand at the start of the actual Bianco Ridge.
The next day, we’re up at 3:00 a.m. Right on time at 3:30 a.m., my guest and I leave the hut. It’s unusually warm: wearing only T-shirts, we reach the glacier below Fuorcla Prievlusa while still under cover of darkness. When we arrive at the top of the saddle, daybreak is finally upon us. We climb over the last rocky outcrops, conquer the striking “shark fin,” and finally stand at the start of the actual Bianco Ridge.
Challenging Conditions on the Schneegrat
Due to the snow-poor winter and the hot summer, most of the famous ridge is no longer covered in firn. Nevertheless, the hard but grippy ice makes for good climbing. We quickly tackle a steep ascent on a running rope, with me belaying us using a non-return belay device.
The upper rocky section of the ridge is completely dry—an absolute climbing delight! We quickly reach the summit of Piz Bernina at 4,049 meters and congratulate each other with a handshake on this magnificent achievement.
Due to the snow-poor winter and the hot summer, most of the famous ridge is no longer covered in firn. Nevertheless, the hard but grippy ice makes for good climbing. We quickly tackle a steep ascent on a running rope, with me belaying us using a non-return belay device.
The upper rocky section of the ridge is completely dry—an absolute climbing delight! We quickly reach the summit of Piz Bernina at 4,049 meters and congratulate each other with a handshake on this magnificent achievement.
The long descent via the Spallagrat and Fortezzagrat
But reaching the summit doesn’t mean the hike is over: we still have at least five hours of hiking ahead of us on the way back to the Diavolezza mountain hut. The descent from Piz Bernina via the Spallagrat—the standard route—is easy for us, and we make good time. At the Marco e Rosa Hut (3,609 m), however, we can’t pass by without stopping for an ice-cold Coke and a panino with cheese and bresaola—a real treat and the perfect short break!
Refreshed, we continue on. Crossing the crevasse-ridden upper Morteratsch Glacier—with slushy snow but, fortunately, following a well-trodden track—we reach the Bellavista Terrace. Soon after, we’re standing at the rocks of the Fortezza Ridge; we climb over them as well and, a short time later, cross the completely ice-free Pers Glacier without ropes. On its right bank, only about 200 meters of elevation separate us from the Diavolezza Mountain Hut.
But reaching the summit doesn’t mean the hike is over: we still have at least five hours of hiking ahead of us on the way back to the Diavolezza mountain hut. The descent from Piz Bernina via the Spallagrat—the standard route—is easy for us, and we make good time. At the Marco e Rosa Hut (3,609 m), however, we can’t pass by without stopping for an ice-cold Coke and a panino with cheese and bresaola—a real treat and the perfect short break!
Refreshed, we continue on. Crossing the crevasse-ridden upper Morteratsch Glacier—with slushy snow but, fortunately, following a well-trodden track—we reach the Bellavista Terrace. Soon after, we’re standing at the rocks of the Fortezza Ridge; we climb over them as well and, a short time later, cross the completely ice-free Pers Glacier without ropes. On its right bank, only about 200 meters of elevation separate us from the Diavolezza Mountain Hut.
15 Hours on the Trail: A Successful Finish at Diavolezza
We reached our destination shortly before 6 p.m. After 15 intense hours on the trail, we raised a glass of well-deserved beer on the terrace at Diavolezza.
An unforgettable mountain hike! Congratulations to my amazing guest, Michael!
Would you also like to climb the Biancograt with a mountain guide? Click here to view my list of tours.
This might interest you:
Biancograt High-Altitude Hike: The Most Beautiful “Stairway to Heaven” to Piz Bernina (4,049 m)
Region: Bernina Group
Prices: 1,590 euros
