The Bumiller Pillar on Piz Palü is one of the truly great combined high-altitude tours in the Eastern Alps. It demands endurance, solid climbing skills, and mental strength. Those who rise to this challenge will be rewarded with one of the most spectacular routes in the Engadin. Here is a report on a demanding guided tour under summer conditions with significant snowmelt.

The Facts

• Mountain: Piz Palü (main peak / middle peak, 3,901 m), Bernina Range / Engadin, Switzerland

• Difficulty: TD+ (very difficult), ice/snow up to 50°, rock up to UIAA V+

• Wall Height & Climbing Distance: approx. 1,000 to 1,350 meters of elevation gain for the entire wall, of which approx. 800 meters is pure climbing distance

• Starting point: Diavolezza Mountain Lodge

The Approach: Receding Ice on the Glacier

After a sumptuous dinner and a comfortable night’s sleep at the Berghaus Diavolezza, my guest René and I set out into the night at 3:45 a.m. Our destination: the base of the famous Bumillerpfeiler.

Once there, it becomes clear that the extremely hot summer has taken its toll. The glacier has literally “sunk,” and a deep, black bergschrund yawns between the ice and the rock. Secured by my guest with an ice screw, I jump over the black hole onto a sloping rock ledge. I secure myself with a solid cam in a crack and climb over tricky, brittle slabs to a fixed rope set up by the mountain guides from Pontresina. Although the condition of the rope is questionable, the bolt there provides a perfect belay station to belay René.

We continue over a few crumbly pitches into the approach couloir of the Pillar. Early in the year, you can often climb this couloir directly through the snow. But since we’re out here at the end of July, we veer off onto the rocks bordering it on the right. These are reasonably solid and equipped with a few bolts. At the end of the couloir, we step onto the now-bare glacier. Due to the massive retreat of the ice, the usual rock passage here is impassable—we have to bypass it to reach the ice flank above.

The true essence of Bumiller: enjoyable climbing on solid rock

Once you’ve mastered this challenging approach, you’re almost halfway there. The actual Bumiller Pillar turns out to be pure climbing bliss! We climb swiftly up slabs with good holds, steep cracks, and small overhangs. The rock here is rock-solid, and we’re really enjoying the climb.

One small downside: We deliberately chose not to bring friction climbing shoes, but I recommend that anyone planning to climb the Bumiller pack them in their backpack. They greatly enhance the climbing experience and speed. Nevertheless, even in mountaineering boots, we manage the final, difficult pitch—a sloping piaz—and continue climbing on a running rope until we reach the base of the imposing serac.

The Final Ascent to the Summit: The Missing Ice Spire

The retreat of the glacier has not spared even the infamous “ice nose” of the Bumiller Pillar: it has been virtually wiped out. What remains is a moderate slope of firn and ice with a maximum incline of 50°. Roped together, we continue climbing briskly, avoiding a few treacherous crevasses near the summit, and at around 3:00 p.m., overjoyed, we stand on the highest point of Piz Palü.

Descent to Diavolezza: Crack Jumps and Mountaineers’ Beer

At first, the descent down the crevasse-ridden Pers Glacier gives us a bit of a headache. Fortunately, the trail is already well-trodden. With a few running jumps over open crevasses thrown in, we make it back to Diavolezza without any trouble. Finally, on the terrace, our well-deserved reward awaits: the obligatory, ice-cold mountaineer’s beer!

Conclusion

The Bumillerpfeiler is one of my absolute favorite guided tours. It requires endurance, climbing skills, and mental strength, but it is undoubtedly one of the most spectacular combined high-altitude tours in the Eastern Alps.

Ready for your own Alpine adventure? Are you interested in challenging multi-discipline tours like the Bumillerpfeiler and looking for a professional guide? ➔ Contact me here – Michael, managing mountain guide at Firngrat.com.