Allalinhorn-Hohlaubgrat, July 26

Our ascent gets off to a very comfortable start: From Saas-Fee, the cable car takes us to the Morenia station. From there, we enjoy a leisurely 1.5-hour hike to the beautifully situated Britannia Hut. After a break, we spend the afternoon doing a short glacier training session on the Hohlaub Glacier.

The next day, we set out at 4:30 a.m. toward the Allalinhorn. Our route first takes us across the lower Hohlaub Glacier, which is free of snow and crevasses. At around 3,200 m, as the first patches of firn begin to cover the glacier, the crevasse zone also begins. Thanks to the good conditions—the night was clear and cold—we’re able to safely cross the snow bridges, some of which are quite thin. After another steep glacier slope with several large crevasses, we reach the east ridge—or Hohlaub Ridge—of the Allalinhorn.

Despite the very thin layer of snow, the ridge is easy to traverse, so we reach the rock step just below the summit after a short while. The very smooth rocks in the lower part of this step are made safer by a chain. Higher up, the terrain becomes easier, and a short time later we’re standing on the summit of the 4,027-meter-high Allalinhorn.

The descent via the standard route—it feels as though hundreds of other climbers are already coming down from the summit—is deeply worn, almost like a mule trail. This way, we reach the Mittelallalin station before noon, from where the Metro and the cable car take us back to Saas-Fee.

Conclusion: A beautiful, enjoyable, and interesting hike up a relatively easy 4,000-meter peak.