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Piz Palü, Central North Face Pillar (UIAA V+, 50°)

The Bumiller Pillar on Piz Palü is one of the truly great combined high-altitude tours in the Eastern Alps. It demands endurance, solid climbing skills, and mental strength. Those who rise to this challenge will be rewarded with one of the…
The second-to-last stretch before the north ridge

Piz Badile Northeast Face, “Cassin” (VI+, 800 m)

Tour Profile Parameters Details Summit & Route Piz Badile (3,309 m), Northeast Face – “Cassin” First Ascenders Riccardo Cassin & companions (1937) Difficulty VI+ (UIAA) / 6a (French), consistently V to VI Wall Height / Climbing…
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Lenzspitze-Nadelhorn, Aug. 25

The encircling of the Hohbalm Glacier or the traverse of Lenzspitze and Nadelhorn are among the classics in the Mischabel Group. This tour is beautiful, long, and challenging. The rock that forms the two peaks is mica schist – generally unpopular…

Kreuzberge, August 25

The Alpstein region is a wonderful area in northeastern Switzerland: steep limestone mountains rise from lovely alpine pastures, stabbing, to paraphrase, like knife-edged peaks against the blue sky. The Kreuzberge VII and VIII are our destination,…

Rockclimbing on the Sustenpass, Aug. 25

Driving up the Susten Pass, a wonderful world of granite and gneiss mountains opens up. There are no 4,000-meter peaks in the Uri Alps here, so they're not as well-known as the great mountains of the Valais and Bernese Alps. But this landscape…

Piz Badile, July 25

Piz Badile is the epitome of a mountain: a monolith of iron-hard granite rock that dominates the deeply incised Val Bregaglia. Its northern ridge is the easiest route from Switzerland to its highest point: climbers must overcome mostly slabby,…

Grundschartner North-Ridge, June 25

Finally, it's here: the perfect day for the north ridge of the Grundschartner. My guest Pit and I happen to have the same day off; it's just after the summer solstice; the weather is warm, actually very hot, and thunderstorm-free! The Grundschartner's…

Klettern am Bockmattli, 19.09.2024

Im Wägital in der lieblichen Ostschweiz gibt es einen grandiosen Kletterberg: zwischen sanften Almwiesen und dem Wägitaler See erheben sich die schrofen Kalktürme des Bockmattlis . Von den 4 Türmen, deren nahezu vertikale, mächtige Gesteinsschichten…
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Arête du Diable, July 30th 2024

Aréte de diable - the devil's ridge, leads over a total of 5 granite towers to the Mont Blanc du Tacul. The climbing is fantastic, very steep in sections and - according to the Chamoniards - rated hard. Nevertheless, I personally think that…

August 3, 2019: Salbitschijen South Ridge

One logical route leads over the south ridge to the 2,981-meter-high Salbitschijen in the Uri region. In about 20 pitches, you climb the imposing granite obelisk, making use of magnificent cracks and dihedrals, scaling rough slabs, shimmying…