{"id":16429,"date":"2026-08-21T12:10:44","date_gmt":"2026-08-21T10:10:44","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/2026\/08\/21\/piz-palue-central-north-face-pillar-uiaa-v-50\/"},"modified":"2026-08-21T15:22:43","modified_gmt":"2026-08-21T13:22:43","slug":"piz-palue-central-north-face-pillar-uiaa-v-50","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/en\/2026\/08\/21\/piz-palue-central-north-face-pillar-uiaa-v-50\/","title":{"rendered":"Piz Pal\u00fc, Central North Face Pillar (UIAA V+, 50\u00b0)"},"content":{"rendered":"<div class=\"\" data-bfc=\"\" data-ved=\"2ahUKEwiJ7ISmpbGWAxW3gf0HHa28HGUQi4wTegoIAggACAAIDBAB\" data-hveid=\"CAIIAAgACAwQAQ\" data-copy-service-computed-style=\"font-family: \"Google Sans\", Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-weight: 400; margin: 0px; text-decoration: none; border-bottom: 0px rgb(10, 10, 10);\">\n<p>The Bumiller Pillar on Piz Pal\u00fc is one of the truly great combined high-altitude tours in the Eastern Alps. It demands endurance, solid climbing skills, and mental strength. Those who rise to this challenge will be rewarded with one of the most spectacular routes in the Engadin. Here is a report on a demanding guided tour under summer conditions with significant snowmelt.   <\/p>\n<h2>The Facts<\/h2>\n<ul>\n<li>\n<p data-path-to-node=\"21,0,0\"><b data-path-to-node=\"21,0,0\" data-index-in-node=\"0\">Mountain:<\/b> Piz Pal\u00fc (main peak \/ middle peak, 3,901 m), Bernina Range \/ Engadin, Switzerland<\/p>\n<\/li>\n<li>\n<p data-path-to-node=\"21,1,0\"><b data-path-to-node=\"21,1,0\" data-index-in-node=\"0\">Difficulty:<\/b> TD+ (very difficult), ice\/snow up to 50\u00b0, rock up to UIAA V+<\/p>\n<\/li>\n<li>\n<p data-path-to-node=\"21,2,0\"><b data-path-to-node=\"21,2,0\" data-index-in-node=\"0\">Wall Height &#038; Climbing Distance:<\/b> approx. 1,000 to 1,350 meters of elevation gain for the entire wall, of which approx. 800 meters is pure climbing distance<\/p>\n<\/li>\n<li>\n<p data-path-to-node=\"21,3,0\"><b data-path-to-node=\"21,3,0\" data-index-in-node=\"0\">Starting point:<\/b> Diavolezza Mountain Lodge<\/p>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"\" data-bfc=\"\" data-ved=\"2ahUKEwiJ7ISmpbGWAxW3gf0HHa28HGUQi4wTegoIAggACAAIDBAF\" data-hveid=\"CAIIAAgACAwQBQ\" data-copy-service-computed-style=\"font-family: \"Google Sans\", Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-weight: 400; margin: 0px; text-decoration: none; border-bottom: 0px rgb(10, 10, 10);\">\n<h2>The Approach: Receding Ice on the Glacier<\/h2>\n<p data-path-to-node=\"23\">After a sumptuous dinner and a comfortable night&#8217;s sleep at the Berghaus Diavolezza, my guest Ren\u00e9 and I set out into the night at 3:45 a.m. Our destination: the base of the famous Bumillerpfeiler. <\/p>\n<p data-path-to-node=\"24\">Once there, it becomes clear that the extremely hot summer has taken its toll. The glacier has literally \u201csunk,\u201d and a deep, black bergschrund yawns between the ice and the rock. Secured by my guest with an ice screw, I jump over the black hole onto a sloping rock ledge. I secure myself with a solid cam in a crack and climb over tricky, brittle slabs to a fixed rope set up by the mountain guides from Pontresina. Although the condition of the rope is questionable, the bolt there provides a perfect belay station to belay Ren\u00e9.    <\/p>\n<p data-path-to-node=\"25\">We continue over a few crumbly pitches into the approach couloir of the Pillar. Early in the year, you can often climb this couloir directly through the snow. But since we\u2019re out here at the end of July, we veer off onto the rocks bordering it on the right. These are reasonably solid and equipped with a few bolts. At the end of the couloir, we step onto the now-bare glacier. Due to the massive retreat of the ice, the usual rock passage here is impassable\u2014we have to bypass it to reach the ice flank above.     <\/p>\n<div class=\"rgg-container\" data-rgg-id=\"1\">    <div class=\"rgg-imagegrid captions-title captions-effect-none \" data-rgg-id=\"1\">\n                    <a href=\"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_061739.jpg\" title=\"The edge column at the base of the Bumiller Pillar\" data-caption=\"The edge column at the base of the Bumiller Pillar\" class=\"rgg-disabled size-medium rgg-img\" data-ratio=\"0.56222222222222\">\n                <img decoding=\"async\" class=\"rgg-tile-img\" src=\"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_061739-253x450.jpg\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_061739-253x450.jpg 253w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_061739-552x980.jpg 552w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_061739-397x705.jpg 397w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_061739.jpg 721w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 253px) 100vw, 253px\" alt=\"Base of the Bumiller Pillar\" loading=\"lazy\" \/>            <\/a>\n                    <a href=\"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_061742-rotated.jpg\" title=\"View from the entrance to the couloir with a damaged fixed rope\" data-caption=\"View from the entrance to the couloir with a damaged fixed rope\" class=\"rgg-disabled size-medium rgg-img\" data-ratio=\"0.56222222222222\">\n                <img decoding=\"async\" class=\"rgg-tile-img\" src=\"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_061742-253x450.jpg\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_061742-253x450.jpg 253w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_061742-552x980.jpg 552w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_061742-768x1364.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_061742-865x1536.jpg 865w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_061742-845x1500.jpg 845w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_061742-397x705.jpg 397w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_061742-rotated.jpg 1081w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 253px) 100vw, 253px\" alt=\"View from the entrance to the couloir\" loading=\"lazy\" \/>            <\/a>\n                    <a href=\"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/IMG-20260729-WA0126.jpg\" title=\"Steep ledge on the glacier below the Bumiller Pillar\" data-caption=\"Steep ledge on the glacier below the Bumiller Pillar\" class=\"rgg-disabled size-medium rgg-img\" data-ratio=\"0.75111111111111\">\n                <img decoding=\"async\" class=\"rgg-tile-img\" src=\"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/IMG-20260729-WA0126-338x450.jpg\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/IMG-20260729-WA0126-338x450.jpg 338w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/IMG-20260729-WA0126-735x980.jpg 735w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/IMG-20260729-WA0126-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/IMG-20260729-WA0126-529x705.jpg 529w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/IMG-20260729-WA0126.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 338px) 100vw, 338px\" alt=\"Steep section on the glacier below the Bumiller Pillar\" loading=\"lazy\" \/>            <\/a>\n                    <a href=\"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/IMG-20260729-WA0154.jpg\" title=\"On the glacier, between the start of the rock section and the approach couloir\" data-caption=\"On the glacier, between the start of the rock section and the approach couloir\" class=\"rgg-disabled size-medium rgg-img\" data-ratio=\"0.75111111111111\">\n                <img decoding=\"async\" class=\"rgg-tile-img\" src=\"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/IMG-20260729-WA0154-338x450.jpg\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/IMG-20260729-WA0154-338x450.jpg 338w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/IMG-20260729-WA0154-735x980.jpg 735w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/IMG-20260729-WA0154-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/IMG-20260729-WA0154-529x705.jpg 529w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/IMG-20260729-WA0154.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 338px) 100vw, 338px\" alt=\"On the glacier, between the start of the rock section and the approach couloir\" loading=\"lazy\" \/>            <\/a>\n                    <a href=\"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/IMG-20260729-WA0148.jpg\" title=\"At the start of the ice slope leading to the beginning of the rock section\" data-caption=\"At the start of the ice slope leading to the beginning of the rock section\" class=\"rgg-disabled size-medium rgg-img\" data-ratio=\"0.75111111111111\">\n                <img decoding=\"async\" class=\"rgg-tile-img\" src=\"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/IMG-20260729-WA0148-338x450.jpg\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/IMG-20260729-WA0148-338x450.jpg 338w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/IMG-20260729-WA0148-735x980.jpg 735w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/IMG-20260729-WA0148-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/IMG-20260729-WA0148-529x705.jpg 529w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/IMG-20260729-WA0148.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 338px) 100vw, 338px\" alt=\"Ice flank beneath the Bumiller Pillar\" loading=\"lazy\" \/>            <\/a>\n            <\/div>\n<\/div>\n<h2>The true essence of Bumiller: enjoyable climbing on solid rock<\/h2>\n<p data-path-to-node=\"27\">Once you\u2019ve mastered this challenging approach, you\u2019re almost halfway there. The actual Bumiller Pillar turns out to be pure climbing bliss! We climb swiftly up slabs with good holds, steep cracks, and small overhangs. The rock here is rock-solid, and we\u2019re really enjoying the climb.   <\/p>\n<p data-path-to-node=\"28\">One small downside: We deliberately chose not to bring friction climbing shoes, but I recommend that anyone planning to climb the Bumiller pack them in their backpack. They greatly enhance the climbing experience and speed. Nevertheless, even in mountaineering boots, we manage the final, difficult pitch\u2014a sloping piaz\u2014and continue climbing on a running rope until we reach the base of the imposing serac.  <\/p>\n<div class=\"rgg-container\" data-rgg-id=\"2\">    <div class=\"rgg-imagegrid captions-title captions-effect-none \" data-rgg-id=\"2\">\n                    <a href=\"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_113623.jpg\" title=\"Ren&eacute; climbs the crux of the nominally hardest pitch on the Bumiller Pillar (UIAA V+)\" data-caption=\"Ren&eacute; climbs the crux of the nominally hardest pitch on the Bumiller Pillar (UIAA V+)\" class=\"rgg-disabled size-medium rgg-img\" data-ratio=\"1.7786561264822\">\n                <img decoding=\"async\" class=\"rgg-tile-img\" src=\"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_113623-450x253.jpg\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_113623-450x253.jpg 450w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_113623-1280x721.jpg 1280w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_113623-768x432.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_113623-1536x865.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_113623-1500x845.jpg 1500w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_113623-705x397.jpg 705w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_113623.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 450px) 100vw, 450px\" alt=\"\" loading=\"lazy\" \/>            <\/a>\n                    <a href=\"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_094555-rotated.jpg\" title=\"There are many pitons along the route; they are, of course, rusty on the surface, but they hold well\" data-caption=\"There are many pitons along the route; they are, of course, rusty on the surface, but they hold well\" class=\"rgg-disabled size-medium rgg-img\" data-ratio=\"0.56222222222222\">\n                <img decoding=\"async\" class=\"rgg-tile-img\" src=\"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_094555-253x450.jpg\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_094555-253x450.jpg 253w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_094555-552x980.jpg 552w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_094555-768x1364.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_094555-865x1536.jpg 865w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_094555-845x1500.jpg 845w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_094555-397x705.jpg 397w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_094555-rotated.jpg 1081w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 253px) 100vw, 253px\" alt=\"Exhibit at the Bumiller Pillar\" loading=\"lazy\" \/>            <\/a>\n                    <a href=\"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_113626-rotated.jpg\" title=\"The rock is rock-solid, and the panoramic view of the Pers Glacier is magnificent\" data-caption=\"The rock is rock-solid, and the panoramic view of the Pers Glacier is magnificent\" class=\"rgg-disabled size-medium rgg-img\" data-ratio=\"0.56222222222222\">\n                <img decoding=\"async\" class=\"rgg-tile-img\" src=\"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_113626-253x450.jpg\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_113626-253x450.jpg 253w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_113626-552x980.jpg 552w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_113626-768x1364.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_113626-865x1536.jpg 865w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_113626-845x1500.jpg 845w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_113626-397x705.jpg 397w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_113626-rotated.jpg 1081w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 253px) 100vw, 253px\" alt=\"\" loading=\"lazy\" \/>            <\/a>\n                    <a href=\"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_115629-rotated.jpg\" title=\"Ren&eacute; traverses to the belay station for the 5th pitch\" data-caption=\"Ren&eacute; traverses to the belay station for the 5th pitch\" class=\"rgg-disabled size-medium rgg-img\" data-ratio=\"0.56222222222222\">\n                <img decoding=\"async\" class=\"rgg-tile-img\" src=\"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_115629-253x450.jpg\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_115629-253x450.jpg 253w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_115629-552x980.jpg 552w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_115629-768x1364.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_115629-865x1536.jpg 865w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_115629-845x1500.jpg 845w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_115629-397x705.jpg 397w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_115629-rotated.jpg 1081w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 253px) 100vw, 253px\" alt=\"Climbing at the Bumiller Pillar\" loading=\"lazy\" \/>            <\/a>\n                    <a href=\"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/IMG-20260729-WA0132.jpg\" title=\"Here is the final section of the rock climb. We climb on a live rope up to just below the serac.\" data-caption=\"Here is the final section of the rock climb. We climb on a live rope up to just below the serac. \" class=\"rgg-disabled size-medium rgg-img\" data-ratio=\"1.3353115727003\">\n                <img decoding=\"async\" class=\"rgg-tile-img\" src=\"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/IMG-20260729-WA0132-450x337.jpg\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/IMG-20260729-WA0132-450x337.jpg 450w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/IMG-20260729-WA0132-1280x960.jpg 1280w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/IMG-20260729-WA0132-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/IMG-20260729-WA0132-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/IMG-20260729-WA0132-1500x1125.jpg 1500w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/IMG-20260729-WA0132-705x529.jpg 705w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/IMG-20260729-WA0132.jpg 1707w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 450px) 100vw, 450px\" alt=\"Final rock section of the Bumiller Pillar\" loading=\"lazy\" \/>            <\/a>\n            <\/div>\n<\/div>\n<h2>The Final Ascent to the Summit: The Missing Ice Spire<\/h2>\n<p data-path-to-node=\"30\">The retreat of the glacier has not spared even the infamous \u201cice nose\u201d of the Bumiller Pillar: it has been virtually wiped out. What remains is a moderate slope of firn and ice with a maximum incline of 50\u00b0. Roped together, we continue climbing briskly, avoiding a few treacherous crevasses near the summit, and at around 3:00 p.m., overjoyed, we stand on the highest point of Piz Pal\u00fc.  <\/p>\n<div class=\"rgg-container\" data-rgg-id=\"3\">    <div class=\"rgg-imagegrid captions-title captions-effect-none \" data-rgg-id=\"3\">\n                    <a href=\"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_140627.jpg\" title=\"We marvel at the mighty serac from the safety of the side\" data-caption=\"We marvel at the mighty serac from the safety of the side\" class=\"rgg-disabled size-medium rgg-img\" data-ratio=\"1.7786561264822\">\n                <img decoding=\"async\" class=\"rgg-tile-img\" src=\"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_140627-450x253.jpg\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_140627-450x253.jpg 450w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_140627-1280x721.jpg 1280w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_140627-768x432.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_140627-1536x865.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_140627-1500x845.jpg 1500w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_140627-705x397.jpg 705w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_140627.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 450px) 100vw, 450px\" alt=\"Serac at Bumiller\" loading=\"lazy\" \/>            <\/a>\n                    <a href=\"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/IMG-20260729-WA0104.jpg\" title=\"I'm joining the ice flank\" data-caption=\"I'm joining the ice flank\" class=\"rgg-disabled size-medium rgg-img\" data-ratio=\"0.75111111111111\">\n                <img decoding=\"async\" class=\"rgg-tile-img\" src=\"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/IMG-20260729-WA0104-338x450.jpg\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/IMG-20260729-WA0104-338x450.jpg 338w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/IMG-20260729-WA0104-735x980.jpg 735w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/IMG-20260729-WA0104-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/IMG-20260729-WA0104-529x705.jpg 529w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/IMG-20260729-WA0104.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 338px) 100vw, 338px\" alt=\"Entry, Ice Flank, Bumiller Pillar\" loading=\"lazy\" \/>            <\/a>\n                    <a href=\"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/IMG-20260729-WA0094.jpg\" title=\"As you approach the summit, the terrain levels off\" data-caption=\"As you approach the summit, the terrain levels off\" class=\"rgg-disabled size-medium rgg-img\" data-ratio=\"1.3353115727003\">\n                <img decoding=\"async\" class=\"rgg-tile-img\" src=\"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/IMG-20260729-WA0094-450x337.jpg\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/IMG-20260729-WA0094-450x337.jpg 450w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/IMG-20260729-WA0094-1280x960.jpg 1280w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/IMG-20260729-WA0094-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/IMG-20260729-WA0094-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/IMG-20260729-WA0094-1500x1125.jpg 1500w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/IMG-20260729-WA0094-705x529.jpg 705w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/IMG-20260729-WA0094.jpg 1707w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 450px) 100vw, 450px\" alt=\"Piz Pal\u00fc Summit Area\" loading=\"lazy\" \/>            <\/a>\n                    <a href=\"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_153515.jpg\" title=\"Large crevasses are located just below the summit of Piz Pal&uuml;\" data-caption=\"Large crevasses are located just below the summit of Piz Pal&uuml;\" class=\"rgg-disabled size-medium rgg-img\" data-ratio=\"0.56222222222222\">\n                <img decoding=\"async\" class=\"rgg-tile-img\" src=\"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_153515-253x450.jpg\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_153515-253x450.jpg 253w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_153515-552x980.jpg 552w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_153515-397x705.jpg 397w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_153515.jpg 721w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 253px) 100vw, 253px\" alt=\"Piz Pal\u00fc Cracks\" loading=\"lazy\" \/>            <\/a>\n            <\/div>\n<\/div>\n<h2>Descent to Diavolezza: Crack Jumps and Mountaineers&#8217; Beer<\/h2>\n<p data-path-to-node=\"32\">At first, the descent down the crevasse-ridden Pers Glacier gives us a bit of a headache. Fortunately, the trail is already well-trodden. With a few running jumps over open crevasses thrown in, we make it back to Diavolezza without any trouble. Finally, on the terrace, our well-deserved reward awaits: the obligatory, ice-cold mountaineer\u2019s beer!   <\/p>\n<div class=\"rgg-container\" data-rgg-id=\"4\">    <div class=\"rgg-imagegrid captions-title captions-effect-none \" data-rgg-id=\"4\">\n                    <a href=\"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_153808-rotated.jpg\" title=\"Overjoyed, we reach the summit of Piz Pal&uuml; in the afternoon\" data-caption=\"Overjoyed, we reach the summit of Piz Pal&uuml; in the afternoon\" class=\"rgg-disabled size-medium rgg-img\" data-ratio=\"0.56222222222222\">\n                <img decoding=\"async\" class=\"rgg-tile-img\" src=\"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_153808-253x450.jpg\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_153808-253x450.jpg 253w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_153808-552x980.jpg 552w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_153808-768x1364.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_153808-865x1536.jpg 865w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_153808-845x1500.jpg 845w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_153808-397x705.jpg 397w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_153808-rotated.jpg 1081w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 253px) 100vw, 253px\" alt=\"Piz Pal\u00fc Summit\" loading=\"lazy\" \/>            <\/a>\n                    <a href=\"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_160326.jpg\" title=\"Glacier break between the main and eastern summits of Pal&uuml;\" data-caption=\"Glacier break between the main and eastern summits of Pal&uuml;\" class=\"rgg-disabled size-medium rgg-img\" data-ratio=\"1.7786561264822\">\n                <img decoding=\"async\" class=\"rgg-tile-img\" src=\"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_160326-450x253.jpg\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_160326-450x253.jpg 450w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_160326-1280x721.jpg 1280w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_160326-768x432.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_160326-1536x865.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_160326-1500x845.jpg 1500w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_160326-705x397.jpg 705w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_160326.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 450px) 100vw, 450px\" alt=\"Pal\u00fc Glacier Breakaway\" loading=\"lazy\" \/>            <\/a>\n                    <a href=\"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_161130-rotated.jpg\" title=\"Snow ridge on the Pal&uuml; East Summit\" data-caption=\"Snow ridge on the Pal&uuml; East Summit\" class=\"rgg-disabled size-medium rgg-img\" data-ratio=\"0.56222222222222\">\n                <img decoding=\"async\" class=\"rgg-tile-img\" src=\"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_161130-253x450.jpg\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_161130-253x450.jpg 253w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_161130-552x980.jpg 552w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_161130-768x1364.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_161130-865x1536.jpg 865w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_161130-845x1500.jpg 845w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_161130-397x705.jpg 397w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_161130-rotated.jpg 1081w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 253px) 100vw, 253px\" alt=\"Firngrat Pal\u00fc East Summit\" loading=\"lazy\" \/>            <\/a>\n                    <a href=\"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_185513-rotated.jpg\" title=\"Our well-deserved mountaineer's beer at the mountain lodge\" data-caption=\"Our well-deserved mountaineer's beer at the mountain lodge\" class=\"rgg-disabled size-medium rgg-img\" data-ratio=\"0.56222222222222\">\n                <img decoding=\"async\" class=\"rgg-tile-img\" src=\"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_185513-253x450.jpg\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_185513-253x450.jpg 253w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_185513-552x980.jpg 552w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_185513-768x1364.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_185513-865x1536.jpg 865w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_185513-845x1500.jpg 845w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_185513-397x705.jpg 397w, https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/20260729_185513-rotated.jpg 1081w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 253px) 100vw, 253px\" alt=\"Beer at Diavolezza\" loading=\"lazy\" \/>            <\/a>\n            <\/div>\n<\/div>\n<h2>Conclusion<\/h2>\n<p data-path-to-node=\"34\">The Bumillerpfeiler is one of my absolute favorite guided tours. It requires endurance, climbing skills, and mental strength, but it is undoubtedly one of the most spectacular combined high-altitude tours in the Eastern Alps. <\/p>\n<p data-path-to-node=\"35\"><b data-path-to-node=\"35\" data-index-in-node=\"0\">Ready for your own Alpine adventure?<\/b>  Are you interested in challenging multi-discipline tours like the Bumillerpfeiler and looking for a professional guide? \u2794 <b data-path-to-node=\"35\" data-index-in-node=\"176\"><a class=\"ng-star-inserted\" href=\"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/en\/contact\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\" data-hveid=\"0\" data-ved=\"0CAAQ_4QMahcKEwjGxN7Qt7GWAxUAAAAAHQAAAAAQeg\">Contact me here<\/a><\/b> \u2013 <i data-path-to-node=\"35\" data-index-in-node=\"200\"> Michael, managing mountain guide at Firngrat.com.<\/i> <\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>The Bumiller Pillar on Piz Pal\u00fc is one of the truly great combined high-altitude tours in the Eastern Alps. It demands endurance, solid climbing skills, and mental strength. Those who rise to this challenge will be rewarded with one of the most spectacular routes in the Engadin. Here is a report on a demanding guided [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":16410,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[117,103],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-16429","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-bernina-en","category-rockclimbing"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/16429","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=16429"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/16429\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":16440,"href":"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/16429\/revisions\/16440"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/16410"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=16429"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=16429"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=16429"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}