{"id":16245,"date":"2026-08-17T19:55:35","date_gmt":"2026-08-17T17:55:35","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/2026\/08\/17\/biancograt-august-26\/"},"modified":"2026-08-18T07:51:56","modified_gmt":"2026-08-18T05:51:56","slug":"biancograt-august-26","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/en\/2026\/08\/17\/biancograt-august-26\/","title":{"rendered":"Biancograt, August 26"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Biancograt Ascent: A Dream Climb to Piz Bernina (4,049 m)<\/b><\/h4>\n
The classic mountain hike over the Biancograt begins in the tranquil village of Pontresina in the Upper Engadine. We start our hike to the Tschierva Hut (2,583 m) from the train station\u2014our base for this alpine adventure. The trail into the beautiful Roseg Valley is long and flat at the start. We decide to take it easy on this section and ride in a horse-drawn carriage\u2014after all, we\u2019ll have plenty of hard work ahead of us the next day.<\/div>\n
We arrive at the hut shortly before 6 p.m. After dinner, we go straight to bed to get enough sleep for the grueling day of climbing to the summit.<\/div>\n
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\n \n \"\" <\/a>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
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A nighttime departure for Fuorcla Prievlusa
\n<\/b>The next day, we\u2019re up at 3:00 a.m. Right on time at 3:30 a.m., my guest and I leave the hut. It\u2019s unusually warm: wearing only T-shirts, we reach the glacier below Fuorcla Prievlusa while still under cover of darkness. When we arrive at the top of the saddle, daybreak is finally upon us. We climb over the last rocky outcrops, conquer the striking \u201cshark fin,\u201d and finally stand at the start of the actual Bianco Ridge.<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
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\n \n \"Fuorcla <\/a>\n \n \"\" <\/a>\n \n \"Rocky <\/a>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
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Challenging Conditions on the Schneegrat
\n<\/b>Due to the snow-poor winter and the hot summer, most of the famous ridge is no longer covered in firn. Nevertheless, the hard but grippy ice makes for good climbing. We quickly tackle a steep ascent on a running rope, with me belaying us using a non-return belay device.
\nThe upper rocky section of the ridge is completely dry\u2014an absolute climbing delight! We quickly reach the summit of Piz Bernina at 4,049 meters and congratulate each other with a handshake on this magnificent achievement.<\/div>\n
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\n \n \"Steep <\/a>\n \n \"My <\/a>\n \n \"\" <\/a>\n \n \"A <\/a>\n \n \"At <\/a>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
The long descent via the Spallagrat and Fortezzagrat
\n<\/b>But reaching the summit doesn\u2019t mean the hike is over: we still have at least five hours of hiking ahead of us on the way back to the Diavolezza mountain hut. The descent from Piz Bernina via the Spallagrat\u2014the standard route\u2014is easy for us, and we make good time. At the Marco e Rosa Hut (3,609 m), however, we can\u2019t pass by without stopping for an ice-cold Coke and a panino with cheese and bresaola\u2014a real treat and the perfect short break!
\nRefreshed, we continue on. Crossing the crevasse-ridden upper Morteratsch Glacier\u2014with slushy snow but, fortunately, following a well-trodden track\u2014we reach the Bellavista Terrace. Soon after, we\u2019re standing at the rocks of the Fortezza Ridge; we climb over them as well and, a short time later, cross the completely ice-free Pers Glacier without ropes. On its right bank, only about 200 meters of elevation separate us from the Diavolezza Mountain Hut.<\/div>\n
\n \n \"View <\/a>\n \n \"Climbing <\/a>\n \n \"At <\/a>\n \n \"The <\/a>\n \n \"Panoramic <\/a>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n

15 Hours on the Trail: A Successful Finish at Diavolezza
\n<\/b>We reached our destination shortly before 6 p.m. After 15 intense hours on the trail, we raised a glass of well-deserved beer on the terrace at Diavolezza.<\/p>\n

\n \n \"On <\/a>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n
An unforgettable mountain hike! Congratulations to my amazing guest, Michael!<\/div>\n
<\/div>\n
Would you also like to climb the Biancograt with a mountain guide?<\/b><\/a> Click here to view my list of tours.<\/a><\/strong><\/div>\n
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<\/div>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Biancograt Ascent: A Dream Climb to Piz Bernina (4,049 m) The classic mountain hike over the Biancograt begins in the tranquil village of Pontresina in the Upper Engadine. We start our hike to the Tschierva Hut (2,583 m) from the train station\u2014our base for this alpine adventure. The trail into the beautiful Roseg Valley is […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":16273,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[117],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-16245","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-bernina-en"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/16245","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=16245"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/16245\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":16287,"href":"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/16245\/revisions\/16287"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/16273"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=16245"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=16245"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=16245"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}