{"id":10456,"date":"2019-08-12T11:20:56","date_gmt":"2019-08-12T09:20:56","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/2019\/08\/12\/july-28th-to-31st-2019-granite-climbing-pizzo-badile-northeast-face\/"},"modified":"2026-09-21T10:04:14","modified_gmt":"2026-09-21T08:04:14","slug":"july-28th-to-31st-2019-granite-climbing-pizzo-badile-northeast-face","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/en\/2019\/08\/12\/july-28th-to-31st-2019-granite-climbing-pizzo-badile-northeast-face\/","title":{"rendered":"July 28\u201331, 2019: Granite Climbing\u2014Piz Badile Northeast Face"},"content":{"rendered":"

To the observer, it appears so imposing, unapproachable, and as smooth as a wall: the northeast face of Piz Badile in Bergell. This makes it all the more astonishing that the first ascenders found a route through this seemingly featureless bastion of compact granite. Riccardo Cassin\u2014to whom I pay my highest respects here\u2014once again demonstrated incredible intuition as he carved out a route via cracks, dikes, ledges, and chimneys up to the north ridge, which ultimately led him to the summit.
\nAfter the beautiful \u201cVia Felici\u201d route at the Albigna Reservoir, which I used to warm up with my guest, we set out the next day: We followed the approximately 25 pitches of enjoyable granite climbing, and I had to realize once again\u2014as on almost every alpine climbing route\u2014that it\u2019s not the key pitches (rated VI+ here) that are (purely intuitively) the most difficult, but rather the infamous \u201cV-Chimney\u201d in the upper section of the wall (currently rated V, originally rated III!!!); an extremely hold-starved passage that would surely \u201ctake the wind out of the sails\u201d of any modern (sport) climber…<\/p>\n

\n \n \"Climbing <\/a>\n \n \"\" <\/a>\n \n \"\" <\/a>\n \n \"\" <\/a>\n \n \"\" <\/a>\n \n \"\" <\/a>\n \n \"\" <\/a>\n \n \"\" <\/a>\n \n \"\" <\/a>\n \n \"\" <\/a>\n \n \"\" <\/a>\n \n \"\" <\/a>\n <\/div>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

To the observer, it appears so imposing, unapproachable, and as smooth as a wall: the northeast face of Piz Badile in Bergell. This makes it all the more astonishing that the first ascenders found a route through this seemingly featureless bastion of compact granite. Riccardo Cassin\u2014to whom I pay my highest respects here\u2014once again demonstrated […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":10379,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[103],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-10456","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-rockclimbing"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10456","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=10456"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10456\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":16629,"href":"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10456\/revisions\/16629"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/10379"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=10456"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=10456"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.firngrat.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=10456"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}